It has been a long time since I have felt like writing. Well I am much better now and feel like my old self. In fact I have been accused of being arrogant and just plain “bad”. Ok, I got caught doing a few suspect things, but really… arrogant?
Rehab in Maine has been okay. I do like the same old boring consistency of doing the same old boring things the same boring time every single day. However occasionally, I do miss the unexpected and excitement of Hoboken and of course I miss you!
Since life now revolves around me and my needs, Slobbie is really angry and just looks for ways to piss off G_Mom and boy she can find them. She is no longer in charge. It is what I want and what I need. Cart doesn’t care, so I have been nice to her and let her share my new bed. Oh yes, thanks for the bed!
I think I have G_Mom straightened out on my meds. I could not take her stressing out over me taking all those pills. So I get one in the morning, and the rest in my food, which I absolutely love. Wish I had been eating this stuff years ago! I finish eating first so I go out first. Slobbie and Cart have gotten really slow about eating. Unfortunately they are still eating what I used to have to eat.
I suppose I should tell you that I took off Monday and ran out back to the kennel. I had on my leash and G_Mom got apoplectic over my adventure. Where am I going to go? I knew she did not have the leash and I went right to the kennel and waited to be let in. I actually like being in there now as long as it is only for about a half an hour. I am not going to lie down on the grass or in the dirt. It takes too much time to then clean my feet! I also got caught going up the steps on my own. I forgot to act like it was a chore. URG! G_Mom was taking the leashes off of the girls and I just walked up the steps without her. I think she thought she forgot me outside or that I had run away, because she was yelling for me and there I was patiently standing at the top of the steps waiting to be let in! People sometimes are just so neurotic! Believe me she can be a bit much at times. She has finally stopped checking on me three or four times a night and telling me I remind her of Adam. Your brother must have been a real challenge as a kid!
The best is the gate being down all day and G_Mom does not realize that we are out of our room all day! When we hear her coming up the steps we all run behind the gate and pretend we are asleep.
That’s all from the Rehab Facility in Maine for now. I will keep you posted and hope that you can visit very soon.
I miss you!
How can I summarize the last decade? I have to say it all comes down to this: The world is a crazy huge mess of a place where lots of really bad things happen to all kinds of people. I am lucky to live in a privileged position in the mess. What this position allows me to do is read and think a lot about how there is only one secret to life:
Love. From love all else comes and it comes in boundless quantities. Now it is hard to love. It is incredibly hard, because it means making yourself vulnerable in ways that can cause huge amounts of pain, annoyance and irritation, let alone just how hard it is to constantly not let the world drag you down. The world seemingly seeks to diminish the amount of love out there.
I will say that I am a practitioner of this ideal, but far from perfect, so before you jump on me and say, “I once saw you so X” Yeah I did, likely, do that, and I am sorry, and I am working on being better. What are you doing?
Let me try to explain this in a reasonable way, because I have had a hard time making it succinct.
You dont know what is going to happen, ever. You think that you do. You do not. You second guess people, yourself, etc… and you create ideas on what will happen in your head. You try to grasp as structures that help you control this outcome to the narrowest possible set and it causes you great amounts of mental effort and anxiety. I had a person tell me recently that I am responsible for their emotional reaction to everything I say. While you should always be thoughtful of presentation, I didn’t even know where to begin to explain to this person the moment I second guess speaking honestly and with lovingkindness to someone, I have already lied to them and worse yet, I have denied them the ability to react and engage in a meaningful way. That sounds like the opposite of honesty and love to me!
» Continue reading So This Is 40?!?
Where to being with this one; it was another amazing trip at a time which caps my first year of climbing outside. A year with 40+ days at the Gunks, Katahdin, Whitney-Gillman, The New River Gorge, Indian Creek and Red Rocks. I have met some incredible people, had some amazing adventures, been scared nearly to the point of crying, and lots of cuts and bruises.
This trip, with Alex, to Red Rocks was simply perfect in every way; from the patience of Alex and his gentle “we have to keep moving” to the routes we picked and the laughing back in the hotel at night. I think one night we were laughing because we were both happy to have made it back. More on that later.
Day one: landing and we went right to the climbs, picking Tunnel Vision. A great multi-pitch at about 750 feet or so. Alex and I alternated leads with my leading the tunnel. This climb was really fun – I know that sounds lame, but the chimney, face, caveish, and crack climbing all added up to a really fun 5.7. I am convinced I did the crux pitch where there was a strange move from the face back into the crack. Maybe thiner people with no packs on might be able to chimney move of this climb. The tunnel was really fun with my laughing the whole time. It is really thin of pro, but I got in three pieces.
Day two: up CRAZY early, I am grumpy, and I accidentally break smash my bottle of bourbon on the floor of the hotel’s breakfast area resulting in us being branded as trouble makers by the staff. I think Alex has some photos of my trying to clean up an entire bottle of bourbon at 6am.
» Continue reading Red Rocks – End of Year One
A quick note to let everyone know that aquaDRAMA was devastated by the week long power outage. Let me be clear, this is the only thing that happened to me, otherwise I am perfectly fine and INCREDIBLY lucky compared to many. Having my tank die is nothing compared to having no home, a family member lost, etc… If you can help people who are badly off, please go do so.
As for the tank, I have rebooted it – drained it, removed all the dead animals, cleaned the sump, and filled it back up with good water. I then seeded it with a started culture to help the cycle restart and I am hoping it will be good in a couple days. I will post more as this unfolds. I am also going to install a new sump, replumb, and install a new UPS to help make the tank more stable in the future.
For those who do not like the metal cables to the ceiling; aquaDRAMA got a new lighting setup over the weekend based upon 2 EcoTech Marine Radion LED fixtures mounted lengthwise across my 90 gallon tank. There is one small issue, the controls of the lamps are right next to the mounting hole and it makes it harder to push on them. Honestly, I am not sure how often you would need to touch them, so I am not too perturbed. If I were the solution is simple, buy slightly higher risers and longer bolts. The whole mount was less then 100$ and was able to order the parts precut from Esto Connectors.
532300-BX 1″ STRAIGHT BASE CONTR (BLACK)
521100-BX 1″ 2 WAY RIGHT ANGLE CONNECTOR (BLACK)
109150-AB 1″ SQ. .A.A. TUBING .065 (BLACK) 4 lengths @ 5 inches
109150-AB 1″ SQ. .A.A. TUBING .065 (BLACK) 2 lengths @ 45 inches
I also ordered 4″ and 6″ risers just to be safe. EcoTech sugests the lamps be 8″ off the water and I wanted to be able to adjust as needed.
The bolts I used are listed on Amazon as “Metric Black Oxide 12.9 Alloy Steel Socket Head Cap Screw, Hex Socket Drive, M5-0.80, 40 mm Length”. I bet you can find them around supply shops without buying 100, but oh well. Again, if you want to be able to touch the controls use longer bolts. I also put in small rubber washers between the bolt and the rack.
As for the holes, find a drill but a drill press is better. Measure the middle of the 1″ tube, and then space them out as much as you like. The mounting holes are 9.72″. I would not cross beam the rack as it doesn’t need it, and that just makes for more trouble in lining up the mounting. The units are only about 3lbs each, so weight it not an issue at all.
If you have any questions, let me know.
Taking a little time off to reflect is incredibly important and as I round another decade around this planet and another decade leading technology change in startups along with reinvention in established companies. What am I thinking about? I am mostly thinking about people.
Why am I thinking about people? I thought about a wandering narrative about how they make it all worthwhile, etc… but instead I come back to this. I was wrong, not always wrong and not wrong in a way that made me terrible, but wrong in a way where a small change would have made all the difference.
A person I worked with at a past job, who I really didn’t get along with, let’s call her Janet, said, “when you watch someone treat people poorly, but not you, what makes you think they wont turn on you?” She might have phrased is differently and I bet she would be shocked to hear that something she said to me stuck in my mind 5 years later. But, this is the part I was wrong about; just because you disagree with someone (a lot?) doesn’t mean you done have something to learn from her, doesn’t mean you cannot do great things together (which, in fact, we did), and is certainly doesn’t mean after years of reflection you thing, “I wish I had done that differently.”
» Continue reading Reflections on The Golden Rule
So, listen my children and you will hear of the weekend of your protagonist – and if you can name where that opening live is from, then you are from New England for sure. It was the best of all bests lined up for a great time.
The ingredients; some off width madness as seen on the internet, amazing weather, some old friends and some new ones, good conversation, a little whiskey and a little less skin on your protagonist this morning, who by the way, is enjoying writing Saramago-esqe, massively joined sentences, while rocking out to Led Zeppelin on the the PATH train, with a huge smile on his face, as he realizes that life is just about as good as it gets, which is pretty damn good; there Saramago, do I need to bring life to a dog character, oh wait, I have. Whoa, even my digression is a little off today. It is going to be a good day.
Back to the tale at hand; the pack forms mid day and decides to remove the metaphorical flesh on Disco Death March, Nathan Named ‘Disco Death Match’. I give it this name because it isn’t a march, it is a match between you and some awesome crazy off-width mess that makes the mind light up and the abs hurt. Up, kneebar, out to the left, up around a crazy corner and, I mean, I have no idea what you call this move; body jam, skin removal, agressive dermabrasion?
» Continue reading The Bag of Sand Encased in Hydroxyapatite
It was early Sunday morning, I was with Paul at The Gunks and the climb we wanted to do was occupied a couple parties deep. I am bad at recalling what they are named, because most of the names are a little dated, so I tend to make up new names that are close. This was one was dubbed Snookie’s Revenge, her revenge being that she turned being a loud mouth into a career, just like my Governor. Next door is a 9 that I believe is called Friends and Lovers, “Nathan Name” Wake Me Up When It Starts, also in contention is Paranoid Delusions of Grandeur. Why these names?
I will explain, I mean really, you can see this post goes on, you had probably assumed I would explain, no?
A bit of background, Gunks climbs are old, most of them, the majority of them and were graded in a time when there was nothing higher than a 5.10. This results in most climbers saying things like “A Gunks 9″ or “Historical Grade” with more than a few climbing veterans telling tales of what a 9 used to be like, etc… I get it all. I love it all. Nothing is static, this is all impermanent, even grades are impermanent. Again proving climbing is the embodiment of enlightened philosophies on earth.
Hitting up a 9 at 9:30 am on a Sunday might seem like a good idea, might seem like a bad idea. I like to climb harder grades in the morning, cooler, rested, etc… and it mostly seems like Paul prefers afternoon, so I lead morning, he leads afternoon. Perfect!
» Continue reading This Is What Happened
Take a look over here @ Climbing with Existentialists to read my guest post about the amazing trip. As I promised, kind of, in my last post, I will sit down and post a bit more about my recent trips to climb. I have very much been enjoying being outside a lot this summer, meeting new people, surprising myself with my ability to control my fear, and learning a lot all at the same time. Read your Daniel Pink.
A quick update so you know that at some point I will get my life together and work on some blog updates. I mean if it would rain or something then I would have a home day and get caught up…but…as I was told last night, “you are a real climber now, when you are in a different crag each week…” So I suppose that running around from The Gunks, to Cannon, to The New (um, we raised some cash for AAC), to Maine, to Rumney, to Maine, back to The Gunks, and maybe CO before the end of the month means what? I am crazy, perhaps… I like to go with adventurous and it is summertime!
When I have a moment, I will buckle down and write up something about each of the trips. I do have notes. The bottom line is that I am having an awesome time and climbing grades I didn’t think were possible, meeting a lot of great people, and spending a serious amount of time outside!
I am working on a full post about my recent trip with Paul to NH for a long climbing weekend. Here is a teaser, the view from on top of the Eaglet Spire
The trip was amazing and I learned a ton about Apline climbing! As I read this week…
One could be forgiven for thinking that climbing is supposed to be fun, but something beyond pleasure drives people to push themselves to exhaustion in such a hostile environment.
It has been about 8 months since I start climbing outdoors and started leading as well. In that short time I have learned a few newbie tips that I thought I would share:
- When placing gear and giving it a tug to check if it is in snug, do not do this towards your face.
- The sling loop that you attach to your harness can be clipped between your legs to keep it out of the way. I have one from Metolius
- When cleaning/following try to clip the protection to your harness or sling before you remove it from the rope, this reduces the chance that you will drop it.
- Slings are your friends, you need them to reduce rope drag. Be thoughtful about making the rope in as straight a line as possible underneath you. This can be hard, but practice it as rope drag really, is, well, a drag . I use the Transformer Sling from Mammut
- Put your rack together with bent gate biners towards the rope as they are much easier to clip. I really love Petzl Spirit‘s as they have a smooth feeling and close actuation, which makes clipping super smooth.
- You are going to want to wear trad shoes, not some crazy bouldering shoes. Look for a comfy flat slipper type shoe. I wear La Sportiva Mythos and notice that about half the people at the Gunks have this shoe on. I also like the Millet Yalla, but the pair is taking a bit of time to break in.
- Make sure you practice rappelling setups on the ground, you need to feel solid up there when doing it. You can never practice too much. There are some good how-to’s out there on using an autoblock system that is much safer.
- Ropes are obviously needed in climbing, I would check out the Mammut series of ropes, they have all variation, dual sheaths for knowing the middle, and all kinds of useful information on rope types and handling.
- A handy blog post about twin/double/single ropes.
- I am sure there are lots of great brands out there, but I go with what I know: Patagonia, Black Diamond, Petzl, Mammut, Metolius.
- Lot’s of people talk about how they dislike the Gri-Gri, dont listen to them. The thing works and works well. It is just heavy so lugging one on a 2 mil approach might not be a good idea when you have 50 biners, 20 slings, 2 ropes, etc… and you are looking for ways to save weight.
- There are lots of great packs out there, but this one really is the best I have found – it is rugged, has good capacity, and is not too expensive: REI Pinnacle
- Try to avoid telling guides what to do, they don’t like it.
- Remember that most people are not scientific about information, therefore take everything anecdotal you hear on the wall as a story not fact. Always back it up with real research from trusted sources.
- If you want to have some fun, tell boulderers to “get a rope” when you walk by them.
Have not been in touch for a while because I have just been straight out busy with things to do each day.
First, the Wii Fit was not accessible because of this Netflix thing that G_Mom is obsessed with watching. I finally got it figured out, but first has to listen to Slobbie blabber on and on about some Law and Order show . I got it off but had to get it back on before G_Mom came home. I almost got caught because the power went off and the clock did not reset so we did not know what time it was.
Then there have been my medications. I think that it is unfair that I get substituted my medication treat for my regular treats sometimes. I do feel better and believe me nobody has ever watched my hips the way G_Mom does.
So the twice a day vacuuming came to an end yesterday when I was raked and raked and raked, then Dad she put me into the dog kennel. Can you believe that I was put into a dog kennel? Me, ELLIE? I was so traumatized. The ground was dirty and there was no pavement. There are actually weeds in there. Of course I looked for the door to leave and saw a few but figured it may ne be smart to try it. Cart showed me the fun places to hide to scare G_MOM. It worked and we laughed when she could not find us. As if Cart would ever go far from home. She is still afraid of her own shadow.
Slobbie is the same old Bitch. She thought she was going to take my biscuit …well I showed her. Then we both got grounded for fighting. Not being an only child can be very tough!
The absolute best is that G_Mom forgot me outside. She fell asleep watching Law and Order and I started to whine. It was time to go it. Well the neighbor came and got me and took me to G_Mom. It was so embarrassing. Serves her right for forgetting about me.
The weather in Maine has been nuts. Hot, then cold, rain and more rain then no rain.
Anyway Dad I miss you. Come visit when you can.
I installed the beta on one of my iPhones tonight (or as one of my coworkers would say; today night) and here are a few observations:
- iTunes Match stopped working and it is asking me to log in every couple seconds.
- The issue with multiple id’s still seems to be a problem
- Siri works about the same – about 10% of the time – the old voice dial system worked so much better
- The DND feature is genius and about time. I missed this feature from my old sony ericsson phone from 2000.
- I am not sure how I feel about some of the color changes
- The phone has hung 3 times on phone calls
- I like the turn by turn and 3d maps. I tried them today and managed to get to where I needed to go quickly.
- The VIP setting on email is useful to help notify me of production issues easily
- The quick reply messages on phone calls is also a simple feature that is really overdue, but nonetheless appreciated.
Honestly, if the fix Siri and make the now with the DND, I really do not need any other features.